Saint-Paul de Vance

On my 'to do' list whilst visiting Nice, is to visit some of the surrounding villages and towns. The South of France is so well known for its hill top villages. I have already visited Grasse and Eze, which are such beautiful spots, i was keen to visit more. Saint -Paul de Vance has been recommended to me so many times, so on a day when the weather looked good, i took off on the bus.

Saint-Paul de Vance is one of the most famous hill top villages in the South of France. The village like most  of the hill top villages, is the product of centuries of political turmoil in the region, being occupied and fought over since the 13th century. Its steep side gave it a strategic position, which was easy to defend.  Now its the home to artists and tourists looking for a part of traditional french life.

Its easy to see why this would become so popular with artists. Its hill top position looking over the French Riviera. Its slopes are still adorned with vine yards and flowers flowing through in the cracks of the stone walls. If i was a painter i would come here too. I spent my time wondering the streets and looking in a the many art galleries.

To get there from Nice (the eco friendly way), you can take the 400 bus . The bus like all public transport around Nice only costs 1 euro each way even as far as Saint-Paul's. You can get on to the bus at Avenue de Verdun, or stops along the Promenade des  Anglais, Though if you get on any later than the Avenue de Verdun, you will probably be standing for the entire 50 minute journey.

You can pick up a free map of Saint-Pauls de Vance at the tourist information  which is located just inside the main entrance. Then stroll among the narrow cobbled streets, exploring it many art galleries, shops, restaurant and little nooks and crannies, for hours. Unlike the hill top village of Eze, it is not as steep and is easy to get to from the bus stop, with out breaking out in a sweat. Though there are still plenty of steps and inclines to make it interesting. Saint-Paul is car free, but there is still access by car for local shops and residents. These cars and vans kept getting in the way of my photos  and i had to keep climbing up on to walls to let them past, which was the only downside.

Also be warned like most of France a lot if the museums, shops and churches shut between 12 and 2 pm-ish. In high season this is less likely to be a problem, but in March, i had to wait 2 hours to go into the church and to go into some of the galleries. I have been in France long enough for this not to be a problem, i just use this time to have lunch and relax in front of the amazing views, Saint-Pauls has to offer.

Saint-Pauls is the start of a couple of walking trails, ask at the tourist information for details. Two of these trails start opposite the bus stop. So i followed the sign post for Vance. Maybe this was not a wise idea, seeing as i did not have a map or directions. The path was easy to follow for the first couple of km's, but then the signs got confusing, and some were missing vital arrows to point you in the right direction. Needless to say i took the long route to Vance, though it was very beautiful, passing through gardens, forests and glens. 

Washout Day in Grasse, France

Apparently this is the wettest March in Nice on record. I am not surprised  its rained most days and on some i just haven't even bothered to leave my hostel. But i had to brave the wet at some point so i decided to visit the town of Grasse. I have visited Grasse once before, and loved it. Hence i was keen to go back. The photo below was from my first visit, last year.  This picture is what should have greeted me.

Grasse is a old industrial town north of Cannes, its industry is very much centered on the perfume industry. The town itself is very run down, with many abandoned and neglected buildings. Most of the modern day perfumeries are build out of town in more modern industrial units. But it is the neglected look which gives Grasse its character and charm, and what bought me back here. 

Even in the heavy rain, as soon as i stepped of the bus i could smell the scented air. The Grasse that greeted me this time though was a very different experience to last time. Nearly all the streets were completely empty, as most tourist took the day to relax in their hotel lounges, and as at times i was sometimes wading ankle deep in water, i was thinking they had the right idea.

I could not quite work out why it was thought it was necessary to hose the streets down in heavy rain!?

The Notre Dame du Puy, Cathedral  was a welcome break from the wet. Its tower shrouded in mist, just to highlight how bad a day it was, there was going to be no panoramas of the surrounding countryside today. Inside the cathedral their are paintings by several famous painters including the local painter Fragonard.

I wandered the wet streets until my jeans were so wet that i was struggling to move and then headed into a couple of perfumeries to start sniff testing. My favorite has to be the Fragonard factory just on the edge of the old town. They have a small free museum and guided tours, when i visited this time around, the factory part was closed for refurbishment, and was due to open again in a couple of days. You can still sniff test all their products in the factory shop.

I spend most of my time in the Musee International de la Perfumerie (5 euro), drying off. It was a good museum, filled with thousands of perfume bottle, both ancient and modern. There is plenty of opportunity to get your nose buds out, with smells from roses, jasmine, nutmeg to cocaine and marijuana. They do guided visits and also a free audio-guild. The audio-guild was not automatically given out and i only found out about it because of a sign in French. Usually i love audio-guilds, but would not recommend this one as i found it a bit, basic and also confusing, as to when i was supposed to press the buttons.

The journey back to Nice on the Bus was amazing. Once we were below the worst of the clouds, I got amazing glimpses of the surrounding countryside half enveloped in mist. Unfortunately the bus driver speed pass too quickly for me to get a decent shot on my camera.

Arriving in Nice, What a beautiful Sky!

On arriving in Nice, France on a very cold wet day in March. I put on my snow boots and ski jacket (hopefully for the last time this year) and went for a little explore. The rain stopped and the rest of the day was overcast and dull. However, once i had taken and checked a couple of photographs, i noticed just how beautiful the sky looked. Sometimes i have to hold a camera before i even notice these things. 

I walked down to the beach and then up on to Castle Hill. I tried to stay on Castle Hill until sunset but security closed up and i suddenly found myself being whistle blown and shouted at in French. It was time to leave.

Mer de Glace - Mountain Train

As a continuation on from my last post... I spent the afternoon making the most of my Mont-Blanc Unlimited Pass. I took the short walk across town, to the Montenvers - Mer de Glace train station, which is located just behind the main train station. And took the 20 minute train ride up to the hotel above the glacier. 

The train is an rack railway line, similar to that used on Snowdon, Wales. Even though i have seen it described as a funicular railway, my small amount of train knowledge knows that funicular railways use a rope and balancing system of two trains (i grow up near one). I am a bit picky, so i did my research.

From the train station you can take a cable car down to the top of the steps, which lead to the ice caves. The cost of the cable car is included in the price of the ticket. I found that most people chose not to make this journey as there are over 300 steps to get you to the ice caves and the cable car does not lead anywhere else.

The Mer de Glace glacier has been in retreated science the Little Ice Age. This retreat is not steady, but an advancing and retreating cycle. However between 1994-2008 the glacier has lost 500m in length and 70m in height at the point of the Montenvers train station (see here). As you descend down the stairs there are plaques stating the height of the glacier in any particular year, which really brings home how much this glacier is currently shrinking.

The ice caves are re-carved carved out of the glacier every year and serve as a mini museum. They are full of colour changing lights, a few bits of memorabilia and some rather odd tacky mannequins.  It was nice to be able to walk under the glacier, but the attraction really could have been made better, by either taking the above away or by putting more effort into it, sorry. 

Once you have survived the climb back up the stairs. You can head to The Montenvers Hotel, were you can stop for coffee or food or head a little further along to the Glacier Museum. This is a very small but modern  museum, where you can learn about the cycle of glaciers, avalanches and watch the Chamonix valley change seasons.

In the summer you can take walks from this point, but in the winter you have to take the train back down or join the skiers down the rest of the glacier.

Aiguille du Midi

Sometimes, from my apartment i get the most wonderful views of the Aiguille du Midi, either at sunset or sometimes spectacular glimpses through the cloud. So one huge thing on my Chamonix bucket list is the Aiguille du Midi, of course.

I had promised my self that the first good day i got of work i would go up the Aiguille du Midi. Last week was perfect, so i jumped out of my bed early, and headed into Chamonix to take the cable car ride to the top. On my way i was lucky to see this sunrise, such a promise of a good day. (this photo is better)

The cable car ride up the Aiguille du Midi, costs 50€ return or 54€ for the Mont Blanc Unlimited pass which also gives you access to other ski areas and attractions. The cable car ride is in two sections the first to the Plan de l'Aiguille at 2317m, and then on to the Aiguille du Midi at 3777m.

I am unlikely to attempt climbing Mont Blanc any time soon, so the Aiguille du Midi, is the closest i am likely to get. At 3777m you definitely feel the altitude, i was really struggling with the steps that get you to some the the best views.

Once on top of the Aiguille du Midi the views are amazing. It is from here that you get the best views of Mont-Blanc (highest peak in Western Europe), and also views across three countries, France, Switzerland and Italy. You really do feel like you are on top of the world.

In the Above picture you can see the Les Houches Ski area, where i lam staying (to the left). From the valley this seams massive, but from the Aiguille du Midi, it looks so low down and you can really appreciate the height.

Apart from a few tourists like me, just up there to look at the view, the majority were there to ski down the legendary black run. You need to be an experienced skier, take a guild, lots of specialized equipment and a good deal of nerve. Not something my one ski lesson covered in the UK, so i'll just stick to the blue runs for now.

This post just ran way to long to fit into it everything in i did that day so i am posting separately about the rest.